Newfoundland is a beautiful province but getting here was a bit tortuous. We had to book the ferry ahead of time. It only goes 3 times a week and always at night, so we booked our spot and we're told to be at the terminal by 3:00 , even though the ferry didn't leave until 5:00. Typical us, we were there by 2:00 and third car in our line up. We wanted to get on the ferry early as we had not been able to secure a berth and were told there were a few reclining chairs on level 8. Loading is much like the Vancouver ferry. They didn't start loading after 4:00 and cars got on first. They even loaded RV's in a different line before us! Needles to say I was getting quite perturbed. We were one of the last to load! I raced up to level 8 and secured 2 seats for Gerry and I. It turned out we didn't really need to worry. I would say 95% if the people get berths and there is a theatre with reclining chairs that seats hundreds. The lounge we were in was small, about 30 seats and was only half full. There was a TV in there where they showed movies until about 11:30 and then turned it off so it was nice and quiet and dark. You still don't get a great sleep though . About 2 hours into the trip our name was called and we were told we could have a berth but we decided to pass. The trip had already cost $565 and the berth was another $200 with taxes. Gerry promised me a motel the first night we were in Newfoundland and that seemed to be a more attractive and cheaper option ( and it was).
The first day and a half was very foggy and we could see very little. We did go to a bird reserve on the southern tip of the Avalon Pennisula. We got to the interpretive centre and decided to pass on the 1 1/2 km hike to the bird island, figuring we would not see anything. But the guide at the interpretive centre assured us it was worth the walk. And it was. It was very foggy and we could hardly see each other but I could hear Gerry gagging all the way because there were sheep all over leaving their presents and it stank! When we got to bird Island I couldn't believe all the birds ! Plus there was only one other couple there. We tend to be early starters and get there before crowds which is nice. Sometimes we get there before things open and that is a bit of a pain.
Because of the fog we decided to skip the rest of the coast and headed inland to Witless Bay, on the Eastern side of Newfoundland, about 50 km south of St John's. We stayed at a Provincial park there and did a coule of hikes along the East Coast trail. The one hike we did along the coast was really nice. We started off fairly early and as we were hiking I noticed spray in the water. I asked Gerry if they were whales and they were. It was awesome! We saw at least a dozen or so. But wouldn't you know it - every time Gerry took his camera out to take a picture, they disappeared. He'd put his camera away and they would start all over again! I think he did finally manage to get one. We saw lots of beautiful coves and coastal scenery - high cliffs with water splashg against the rocks below. It was also a record hot day in the area we were in and so humid. I'm sure I lost 10 pounds in sweat! We have been very lucky with the weather. When we get rain, it is usually at night and it cools things off a bit. But we have had some pretty hot days. We did a couple of smaller hikes along the East coast trail and then moved on to St. John's. We visited Cape Spear which is the most eastern point in North America. So I guess technically, we are heading home now. We got a picture in front of a sign that declared this, but alas, no toe dipping as the cliffs were too high. As we were touring Cape Spear the fog started to role in and then rain so we called it a day and went back to our campground to do laundry and grocery shopping. Newfoundland is not a good place to be a vegetarian. Vegetables are very expensive and not that fresh. We are eating more canned food here. The next day was beautiful again and we headed to Signal Hill. We got there before it was open but we could see the trail around the hill so we took it. It was quite a long hike around the hill, but very scenic. There was even a part where you had to hang on to a cable while traversing a very narrow strip of path. Lots of stairs up and then down as well.Gerry gots lots of pictures of st John's harbour . Visited Cabot tower where Marconi sent the first transatlantic signal. We then headed out of St John's to the north tip of the Pennisula and did a couple of smaller East coast trail hikes. All in all a good day.
The next couple of days were spent exploring the coast of Newfoundland. They have these pennisulas that jut out from highway 1. Each one is unique and beautiful in it's own way, but the roads are terrible! Usually the speed limit is 80 but Gerry doesn't even do that, and cars are passing us, like we are standing still. We did a couple of small hikes and met a couple who were travelling the opposite direction we were. As we were trading hiking and must see places we saw a whale out in the distance, just meandering along a fish line. Again, very beautiful. That night we camped at the Bellevue Beach campground. In Newfoundland there are not a lot of campgrounds in certain areas, and very few recommended by the NFLD tourist industry. This one was not in the book, but it was getting late so we decided to take it. We paid $32 for the night and they only had pit toilets! We should have known we were in trouble when we saw the gate system at the registration. There was a rope strung across the road, and there was a hole in the registrant building. When you were allowed to enter or leave the lady would release the rope and you would drive over it and then she would tighten it. They did have showers and flush toilets but they were locked by the rope lady and you had to pay $3.00 to use them. The campsites were so tight that the picnic table of the site beside us was 2 feet from our van. No privacy whatsoever. This is the worst site we have been in since landing in Newfoundland, most of
them, even the one in St John's are more like what we are used to; semi private and lots of room. The bathrooms are varying degrees of clean though. Yes Emily I am fixated on bathrooms!
This is getting long so I will close and continue. I haven't told you about the puffins yet . . .
Whales are so cool. Did you end up going to Signal Hill once it opened?
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